Thursday, December 31, 2009

Cool sites; rehab and injury

I have no upper body problems at the moment but I am beginning to have lower body problems; hip, knee and foot. I am using lower body to initiate moves and am straining them without proper stretches or techinques.

I have tender spots around the hip.

Tensor fasciae latae or IT band related issues by sportsinjuryclinic

Exercise 1

Exercise 2




Friday, December 11, 2009

Lower back pain

Revisited: This turned out to be a muscle inbalance. Iliopoas are tight. I started doing squats and lunges to strengthen glutes. Iliopoas are muscles in your front pelvis. They get tight from lifting legs and twisting. That solves my problem and I don't have back ache any longer.

I won't say it is a pain. It is rather dull pressure in the back. As you climb overhang, your hyper extension of the back causes. I found a French site with great stretches I was describing in the previous article.

Translated from definition section

The word simply defined back pain pain in the lumbar region. That is to say, the bottom of the spine. Localization of the lumbar region of low back pain are many climbers, both in the type of pain in their causes. From the surface to depth, the different structures that can generate back pain are: • the muscles of the lumbar region, which may spasm, or because of the effort, either to protect the underlying structures, · intervertebral ligaments, which may suffer a prolonged stretch, · joints which can be worn when one speaks of osteoarthritis, · intervertebral discs, which can also be worn, crushed, or submit an overhang or a hernia, · meninges, envelopes the spinal cord, which may undergo various stresses (tensions , pressures).

You can use Google translate and it does adequate job. There are videos of stretches. It is great.

Grab holds gently and softly. Don't pull it down like an idiot.

The increased rest is working. I have less problems with fingers and I am fully rested. I am eager to climb.

I realize I need to go back to the basics every so often to test habits and assumptions.

For example, silent feet does not mean I place them silently and stare at it like an idiot. It means I place weight and feel and move off. Glue hand does not mean I grab a hold and think it is done. It means I place my hand the way I imagined and holding it the same way instead of shifting it after placing weight. Yesterday I realized when pieces of skin under my fingers shift under pressure. I was shifting my hand holds and stressing my skin to a breaking point. Subtle difference is how it plays out. First off, I am busy powering through without body awareness otherwise. Second, I am stressing my body through unnecessary peak stresses with poor hold contacts.

Back to the basics, I don't know how many times I am making these round-trips but the rock can wait.

I am doing some supplemental exercises; recruitment and strengthening of forearm, shoulder muscles and stretches of deeper core muscles. I complement them with opposing muscles training. This is to have muscle balance with stability.