Monday, June 14, 2010


First off, I am free of injuries first time in a long while. I have many happy news to share..

Improvements in techniques and better foot work and whole a lot of fixing bad habits... They resulted in pain free climbing plus I feel I will be breaking into next grade. I am going to Yosemite with friends after a long while because I could not think of facing these injuries.

My left side came back. Knees are doing really well. Fingers are free of pain or swelling. Toes are doing great. And the left shoulder is happy.

Again, a lot of my injuries are from bad habits and it is hard to kick them off.

Whenever I had time, I am always standing on one foot and doing balance acts writing alphabets or whatever is fun. I try not to sit too long and try to move about. It helps me recycle lower back, pelvis and knee.

Always find neutral lower back using muscles. Much of my issues are from sitting around too long.

Recycling toes and using smaller toes in climbing with proper shoe fit did wonders. Also doing opposition toe exercises keeps them pain free.

Regarding fingers, also recycle them. Use smaller fingers and use thumbs every chance you get. Using your thumb separates you from 90% of climbers..

My shoulder, yes, I had two orthopedists go head to head and see who comes on top. One, they are not perfect and one especially was sloppy. Good education. I thought of going under knife to remedy the shoulder dislocation. It turns out it is not the cause of the impingement. I need to exercise and improve my shoulder curvature and lots of opposition muscle training to compensate climbing.

So, I decided to live with a small tear in anterior labrum of the left shoulder and start building back muscles gradually with good balance. So far, touch wood but it has been great.

So psyched.

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