Why do I revisit same injuries as they are new? Well, they are new.
You change one thing. It is different. Change amount of climbing from weekend to a few days at a time. Change to higher grade. Change your habits and try new techniques that you have not mastered.
Two things affect injuries drastically; angle and amount of climbing. Injuries are reactions. They flare up again and again. I call them weakest links. Elbow problem now is not exactly the same as elbow problem of the past. In the past, wear and tear of multiple days of climbing lower grade, weakest link fails first. My current elbow problem is muscle inbalance resulting in excessive stress on the weakest link.
This is the reason Dave Mcleod promotes deep learning instead of taking quick recipes. There are few reasons why this approach causes injuries.
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