Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Rest is training!

Revisited: In French, there is a lot more instructions about these types of information as it turns out. I was speaking with a good French climber. He climbs 8b and V10 and trad hard climb in his town of Serre Chavalier. He said it takes 3 years for tendon and ligament be stronger enough to get beyond V6 or 7. My answer to that is freeze theraphy every rest day and it is working out nicely. My fingers feel wholesome and not run out.

I increased the rest to two days that I am climbing more intensely. I don't have real expectations where I will go with this as long as I don't have chronic injuries.

I do this routines according to SCC, aka Self Coached Climber.

Fingers are doing good. I load them carefully and generally don't load statically and excessively. Every time I load my hand, I flick my wrist and stretch hand to flush. I give Adam Ondra the credit for this little amazing trick. Left shoulder and elbow are doing better with stabilization exercises. I should do little flush trick on them as well.

I am afraid to push my fingers too much. But instead of exclusively pulling on fingers, I engage forearm and upper arm into the hand hold. It could mean I don't keep my arm dead straight but at an angle.

But most of improvements and injury preventions come from foot work. I have enormous trouble where I need lots of shoulder stability and strength. With stronger core, it is surprising that I can make moves I was not able to make in the past.

I feel I need to be patient at the moment. I need to wait for the rest of deeper muscles to develop with techniques. I need good positive motivation like "with good approach and training, I made some hard moves and sustained climbing and it felt good instead of obsessing and getting discouraged."


  1. Taking proper rest would help rehabilitation of sports injuries.

  2. Asolutely, I am so tempted to go to the gym though. In fact, rest pays off more than training at my stage of training as soft tissues are getting stronger.